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*You will then be prompted with finder to locate the. *You will see an option here to Open Profile. *In Cura, click File in the upper menu bar. *This will take you to the homepage of the Cura application. The option you select would not matter because you will manually change all values, but we recommend selecting Other and then zone3D printer for setup. *There will be a list of printers to select from on this list. *Find Cura in your applications once installed and open it. *Use the provided USB cable to connect the printer to your computer. *Make sure you have Cura version 15.04.6 downloaded for Mac. *This will bring you to the main page of Cura with an image of the empty bed along with some settings. You would also need to select the box for the heated bed. For the Mini 3D printer, the machine size would be 200 mm x 200 mm x 175 mm and the nozzle size is 0.4 mm. *This will ask for some generic printer information. *This will open another window with other printer options, you would then select the Custom option at the bottom of the list.
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*There will be a selection of printers to choose from, make sure to select the Other option at the bottom of the list. *You will be prompted with a setup screen for your first time running the program. *Use the provided USB cable to connect the printer to your computer (make sure you are not connecting into a USB 3.0 port). 3D Printing News, Interviews & Editorials Supplied by 3DPrint.*Make sure you have Cura version 15.04.6 downloaded for PC.Quick Navigation Tips, Tricks and Tech Help Top But then that's for a direct drive printer and I get zero stringing on it anyway. I have no idea if you can do this on other slicers - as the only other one I use is flashprint - and it doesn't have this option. And that's usually reserved for black pla printed at fairly low speeds.Īnd avoid crossing outline for travel movements. Seen people print pla at 180c - 200c is my lowest. I find that printing pla hotter works best for me. Which will cause it's own issues.īut iy can only work if the filament is at the right temperature. so long retraction settings will result in short periods where there is no filament flowing at all. I've seen people recommend 6mm and longer.īear in mind there is ALways slack in a bowden setup. One thing to avoid on a bowden setup are very long retraction distances. This isn't the computer i print from so the settings shown above are currently pretty random. The other retraction settings I change according to the filament type and what I'm printing. So it doesn't effect print times in any noticeable way. So any stringing is not noticeable.ĭelta's can have pretty high travel speeds without any probpems. What that does is route the printhead around the already printed bits of the model. Do you think it would run on an raspberry pi V1? I'm generally pretty savvy and can figure stuff out, or at least tinker, but I'm completely at a loss here. I don't really understand what is different between the kossel pro settings and the hero101. The layer quality is also significantly worse. I've got about 4mm of height in almost 2h30m of printing time. I am trying to print a funktopus at a much more reasonable size. ( little joke I guess from Anycubic engeneers.)Įlliptic plate, Marlin Gcode, and for the printhead settings just take your ruller ( I don't use print one by one for the moment). I personnally used Hero101 settings, changed width and depth to 200, and hight to 333. In the end, you should be able to take any kossel system printer as bases, and tweek a few things.
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I wondered too the first time I installed it (especially when Anycubic talks about having a profil in Cura 15.04).